Marquise au Chocolat

This beauty is called the Marquise au Chocolat and is essentially the most decadent and delicious chocolate cake. A layer of chocolate sponge soaked in rum syrup is topped with a layer of praline crisp and then covered in a rich dark chocolate mousse. The whole thing is covered in a dark chocolate glaze and decorated with macarons. Positively sinful.

Today's demo was led by Chef F and was very entertaining, if somewhat difficult to follow. He often breaks off to give us some background information or a little science lesson on why the ingredients react the way they do. It's very interesting, but a little chaotic at times. He instilled some fear in us as he stressed the importance of exact temperatures when making the chocolate mousse. He even went to the trouble of drawing a chart on the white board of all the different results should we have the chocolate too cold, or too hot, and so on...

 All of us were a little reluctant to go into the practical as we had heard stories of other students unable to finish the cake in time. We really shouldn't have worried so much. Several of us finished fifteen minutes early and were waiting around, trying to find other things to do with our time. We should have spent that time fixing up our plated desserts. At presentation time, Chef F went pretty easy on us for the cakes. He wasn't so soft-spoken with regards to our plated desserts, though. "Shit! They're complete shit! I wouldn't pay $5 for that!" We were all a bit shocked, but he was completely right. They were quite a sorry mess. I had tried to be a little creative with mine, but it didn't turn out well at all.

The cake, however, was a COMPLETE hit at the office the next day. I pulled it out in the afternoon and could not get any peace until every last crumb was gone. People were coming into the office, groaning with pleasure. I can now fully understand the term "food-gasm" now.

Delice Caramel

It was not a good day... I had absolutely no desire to go to school today - not really a good way to start the day.

The demo went smoothly enough and everyone seemed pretty confident that they could complete this cake. After all, we all were able to make the dreaded Blood Orange Cake last week - "The Hardest Cake". We were feeling invincible! But as I walked up those stairs to the practical kitchen, my stomach just started twisting and I felt really uneasy. Maybe it was some sort of premonition, because that practical was the worst one we've had yet.

The two-toned chocolate cigarettes proved nearly impossible for everyone in the room. I lucked out and managed to make a few ugly thick ones while my classmates looked on in envy. I barely managed to pipe all of the required ladyfinger sponge onto my pan and the resulting rounds were almost an inch too small for the cake. My plated dessert was a dismal failure - the pear mousse at the top didn't set properly, so I covered the sloppy white mess with a caramelized pear (I refused to take a picture of the darn thing, though). My cake went in to the freezer a full 45 minutes before presentation time and yet I somehow managed to present a good 10 minutes late. I was a lucky one. Some of our classmates presented a good 35 minutes late. Chef H was understandably not in the best of moods when we left... and still had another practical to go with the other group. He's off on a much-needed vacation next week and probably can't wait to go after our performance tonight.

There were only two things I am proud of about this cake: 1) my caramel sauce is awesome; and 2) I got the layers of creams exactly the same. When I cut into the cake at home I did a little dance of joy seeing the perfectly even layers.

Blood Orange & White Chocolate Mousse Cake

We arrived in our demo class to a white board marked with "HARDEST CAKE" in bold letters across the top. That is how they refer to the dreaded Blood Orange & White Chocolate Mousse Cake. It would prove to be a tricky little devil to complete on time, but my fear still lies in the Millefeuille Praline.

Throughout the demo Chef H stressed to us the importance of timing with this cake. He set deadlines for us to have completed different components, without which I think I would have been doomed. We had one thing going for us today - we had already made the cigarette paste in our practical class the day before, so it was one less recipe to make. However, on the big exam day we will have to make that from scratch as well.

The cake is composed of a ladyfinger sponge on the bottom soaked with syrup & blood orange juice. On top of that is white chocolate bavarian cream, then a layer of flourless chocolate sponge cake and then the blood orange mousse. Holding all of it together is a joconde sponge lined with chocolate cigarette paste. Once all of it has been put together, you need to let it rest in the freezer for at least 30 minutes, otherwise it will be a soupy mess when you unmold it. I topped mine with some bubble sugar, chocolate ribbons and fresh fruit.

Count them - 3 sponge recipes, 2 cream/mousse recipes and the cigarette paste, not to mention having to temper chocolate for the decorations. What results is a whole lot of rush. The practical kitchen was a blur of students rushing back and forth for ingredients and the air was filled with shouts of "behind", "open oven" and, most of all, "CHEF!!"

In all honesty, those 2 1/2 hours are mostly a blur in my memory now too. I rushed to get everything done and was able to finish exactly on time - something I was extremely proud of... until Chef H told me I have to work faster next time. Always the same refrain: "work faster". I think that is probably my biggest weakness and will always be an ongoing battle for me in the kitchen.

A Very Busy Day of Millefeuille Praline & Plated Desserts

This morning we started the day with an open lab and above is my second attempt of the headache-inducing Millefeuille Praline. The chef had prepared the dough for me before the open lab, so I decided to skip making my own dough and get started on the rest of the recipe to see if I could finish on time. I was at a distinct advantage over everyone else because they'd forgotten to mention which recipe they'd be using and there weren't enough doughs prepared ahead of time.

I ran into problems from the beginning with the dough - it was way too soft and the butter was too warm. I tried rolling it out for the first turn and butter started shooting out of the top and leaking from 5 different spots in the dough. So into the fridge it went and all the time I saved by not making my own dough was spent waiting on everything to chill enough.

Everything else went pretty well, though. I managed not to melt another spatula in the caramel and I even cooked the puff pastry fully this time. I was still a little on the slow side and finished everything a few minutes late, but I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Phil and I indulged in a slice of it after dinner and the longer baking time for the puff pastry really makes a difference. It's so flaky and delicious. 

After the open lab, we had a demo where Chef H showed us how to make plated desserts - something I've been dreading for so long. Decorating a cake is one thing, but designing a plated dessert really intimidates me. I look at the white plate and my mind just goes blank. 

Despite the misgivings, the practical was really enjoyable. We worked in teams and, since there was an uneven number in our group, we were on a team of 3. We just whipped through the recipes and had enough time to make a pistachio brittle - Jess' brilliant idea. It turned out really well and added a nice crunch to everything. 

I didn't get the best review on my plates... I always like to work in even numbers and love symmetry, but apparently that's not what you want for plated desserts. My kiwi cutting skills aren't good and my chocolate piping was a bit shaky.  But I think the biggest critique from Chef H was that I need to take more chances and risks. Definitely something I need to work more on...

Macarons for the Family

The in-laws are coming to town and I'm going to greet them with an army of macarons! Phil had asked me to make some little treats to give them some energy on their camping trip in Gatineau Park. I decided to make macarons again because I just can't get enough of them. So crunchy and delicate, and incredibly addictive. Everytime I pass by the fridge, they call out to me.

I was really enthusiastic about the project and dove right into a double batch. Not exactly the best idea when I only have a single shelf in my tiny oven. The counters and table in the kitchen were covered with pans full of macarons waiting for their turn in the oven. This batch wasn't my best - I didn't macaronner the batter enough, so some of them had little hats. I also think that their extended wait on the counter developing that "skin" on top resulted in an airy space between the foot and the top of the macaron. I brought one to Chef H at school the next day and he says that my oven is too hot - I have to reduce the temperature from 250F to 220F.

These ones are filled once again with salted caramel. I find the salt cuts the sweetness of the macaron and the caramel just beautifully. I attempted to make some praline ganache to fill half of the macarons but it refused to set properly. It's destined to become praline truffles tomorrow.

The macarons were a huge success with the in-laws. We brought them along with us to Gatineau Park, where we spent the day lounging on the beach and enjoying amazing food. What is better than a simple burger and salad enjoyed on a park bench?

In the evening, around a blazing fire with a cup of hot coffee in one hand, we finally cracked open the box of macarons. I had packed 4 cookies for everyone, and thank goodness I did. They really didn't last long. Phil's four-year-old cousin kept sneaking over to get more while his parents weren't looking. By 8:00 he was running around the campsite in circles from all the sugar he'd eaten.

Millefeuille Praline

After reading other blog posts by former students and watching the demo, I knew this was going to be a right pain to make. Chef H was moving throughout the entire demo and only barely finished within the 2 1/2 hour deadline. What hope did novices like us have of finishing on time?

We entered the practical kitchen on THE hottest day of the summer. +40 C degrees, but I think I would have been sweating just from the stress of this cake. It doesn't look that fancy but it really is quite a process to make everything.

The number one difficult thing to make is the puff pastry. We started off by making our dough from scratch and then exchanged it for a detrempe made by the chef earlier, which had rested for the necessary amount of time. Then you layer it with a massive square of butter, rolling and turning. Then let it rest. Then turn it again. Then let it rest again. And so on until you've turned it at least 5 times; more if you're REALLY good. I wasn't. I had a hard enough time just getting in the minimum 5 turns during the time period. See, you're supposed to let it rest in the fridge for at least 20 minutes between turns otherwise it becomes too soft and elastic and the perfect layers that make it puff pastry are ruined.

To keep you really on your toes, you need to complete a recipe or task in between each turn of your puff pastry. The praline crisp, whipped cream and pastry cream were a cinch - the only battle was squeezing in to the ingredient area, where all the other 10 students were on top of one another. And of all days, I tempered my chocolate without a hitch! Perfect on the first try.

What really put the wrinkle in my day was the caramelized hazelnuts. The caramel started off beautifully. I got it done right on schedule and it was exactly like the chef had made. Then I made a HUGE error in judgment when I picked my spatula. Rookie mistake. I used a spatula that wasn't heat-proof in over 160 degree sugar. It melted right into my caramel. I felt so ridiculous telling Chef H what had happened. Luckily Jess had some leftover and I just reheated and used that, but lost valuable time in the process.

It was a rush to make the final turn of my dough and in the end I had to sacrifice the last few minutes of baking time to finish assembling the cake. Not quite GBD (Golden Brown Delicious)* but passable. The assembly wasn't too arduous, but I still finished a good 5-7 minutes late. Major points deducted if this were the exam. Chef H was rather easy on his critique, but this is definitely going to be my open lab recipe. I just need to pick up a good spatula beforehand!

*On a minor aside, I had thought that this little saying was something that only Chef H says. But I heard the term used by a Cordon Bleu teacher in the States on an episode of Eat Street this morning. Made me giggle and feel like part of the hip GBD crowd. Finally, a clique I can relate to!

Petits Fours Glaces

I've been dreading today all weekend - we'll be working with the temperamental fondant once again. I think it's universally acknowledged by pastry students that fondant is one of the most frustrating substances to work with. It can't be too hot, or too cold; too thick or too liquidy - it has to be just right. For me, at least, that seldom happens.

The demo was mesmerizing - Chef H was just a blur of movement as he whipped up recipe after recipe - pate sucree, almond cream, simple syrup, ganache, italian buttercream... And we were only halfway through class! The rest of the time Chef H was busy assembling six different little delicacies, every single once is so intricate.

Most of them have a flavoured or coloured buttercream piped on top. The chocolate rectangles are piped with the rich ganache and the jam triangles are just spread with some raspberry jam. Afterwards, all except the chocolate rectangles are dipped in their respective flavoured/coloured fondant and decorated with chocolate piping or buttercream. The results of all this work are colourful little cookies that disappear all too quickly.

Vanilla Barquettes

Vanilla Mice

Coffee Domes & Jam Triangles

Chocolate Rectangles & Square Frogs

When it came time for us to go in the kitchen, I was a bundle of nerves. So many recipes to complete with limited time, not to mention all of the fondant work! That being said, it ended up being one of the most enjoyable and successful practicals so far. I think the trick is to be sufficiently intimidated that you keep your head down and just keep working. It's the days when I'm most confident going in that I usually really mess up. 

The Chef went easy on us with the practical as we only had to make 3 different types of petits fours: vanilla mice, coffee domes and chocolate rectangles. The fondant was really tricky to work with, as anticipated, but Chef let us in on a very handy trick to clean it up afterwards. Thank goodness because mine were all dripping fondant, even though I'd cleaned them up so nicely at first. I still have to work on the uniformity of my piping, and the tails on my mice were abismal; however, it was a pretty satisfying class.

Chocolate Rectangles

Vanilla Mice

Coffee Domes

Chocolate Candies

They don't look so bad from here, but those chocolates caused me no end of grief during the practical. I sat through the demo, brimming with confidence. I've made chocolate truffles and candies every Christmas for the last three years. I felt like it was in the bag - I would finish this practical earlier than anyone else with a beautiful product!

Sadly, that was not the case. The kitchen we had to use had just been vacated by a cuisine group and it was boiling hot. I swear it was +30 C in that room. And everything that could go wrong, seemed to happen. The ganache wouldn't set quick enough, then it set too much. Tabling the chocolate took a full twenty to thirty minutes until my arm felt like it would fall off. The muscadines were so soft they fell to pieces when you dipped them. The chocolate wouldn't set quick enough so little fork marks were all over the truffles. The rochers were perfectly dipped, then as they chilled the filling started to poke out of the chocolate like little worms. So frustrating! In the end, not my most successful practical.

Here are a few photos of the chocolates the Chef made.

Chocolate Boxes

This afternoon we had our first class with Chef Christian Faure. He makes chocolate tempering seem so easy. Just spread a few times and presto! C'est fini! Well, I guess it should be easy when you treat chocolate the way he does - you must treat chocolate like a lover.

Chef Christian whipped up two beautiful chocolate boxes in no time. Although seeing him having a bit of difficulty trying to get the square box's sides to stay up convinced me to make the easier round box. For the round box, he traced a picture of Bambi onto a sheet of acetate and then covered it in dark chocolate. For the rectangular box, he made his own tracer sheet with white chocolate and used a painting tool to create a wood grain design, then covered it in dark chocolate. The Chef also showed us how to make a quick and easy chocolate basket using a bowl.

With the two boxes done, we were only halfway through our three-hour demo so the Chef decided to make a chocolate flower. It really didn't look like much when he started assembling it, but it slowly transformed. He added a dusting of gold powder afterwards - in the camera it looked like it was raining gold!

Our practical was right after the demo and I was so nervous that I'd break the box at the very end or not temper it properly. That being said, it turned out to be one of the most relaxing practicals I've had. No recipe to follow or ingredients to weigh. Just grab your chocolate and get working!

I screwed up the tempering several times, but luckily caught it in time. It actually was a real confident-boosting practical because now I feel I can judge for myself the right temperatures. Fingers crossed I can retain this knowledge.

I finished a full half hour early and am somewhat satisfied with the results. I have to practise my chocolate piping skills some more and the top of the box is considerably larger than the actual box. More chocolate to eat, though, I say! I chose the Cheshire Cat for my transfer picture - he reminds me so much of the chubby little guy at home.

Playing Catch up...

I have to apologize once again for the long delay between posts. I had started first term expecting to be a diligent little blogger, but it was quickly the first thing that fell to the wayside. Everything has been so hectic and overwhelming, but I'll post backwards to give a brief recap of my experiences at baking school these past 3 months. And then I promise to post more regularly. Pinky swear.

In the Mood for Scones?

It has now been four full weeks since I have officially practised anything from school, yet I still can't bring myself to do it. That being said, I just had the overwhelming urge to bake something today so I decided to make scones once again. It's terrible but even mentioning the word "scones" makes me feel so rebellious. My hard-earned skills for procrastination are definitely coming into play.

Scones are not even remotely French and we'll never see them on the syllabus at Cordon Bleu. But they are delightful little quick breads that go wonderfully with Sunday brunch, or just on their own as a snack. No diet will ever stick while these little beauties are in my house.

The recipe I used today was from Baking with Julia - the recipe for Buttermilk Scones is incredible. The buttermilk yields a really delicate and moist scone that almost melts in your mouth. I had made them last weekend as well, using the recommended lemon zest and adding a sprinkling of poppy seeds. I still had half a litre of buttermilk left, so I decided to try this recipe one again.

This time I doctored the recipe a different way, as Phil had requested maple-walnut scones (he has a particular soft spot for all things maple). I used maple sugar in place of regular sugar. Then I toasted some chopped walnuts on the stove and added maple syrup, cooking it down until they were all nicely coated with a crispy maple shell.

I was feeling particularly rebellious today and threw away all the presentation skills they're trying to drill into my head at school. I like to call these scones "rustic"-looking, but really they're just lazy. I patted the dough out into a round and cut some very rough triangles. Topped everything with a light brushing of butter and a couple of the leftover walnuts. Et voila! Rustic Maple-Walnut Buttermilk Scones.

Fraisier

Once again, I am horribly late writing this post. Most of the details from the practical are pretty much gone, but this was probably the most enjoyable and successful cake I've made thus far. Chef H gave me a 4 - 4.5 out of 5 for it. I was so excited! I definitely need more practice on my chocolate piping.

Two thin layers of genoise cake are imbibed with syrup and covered in a thick layer of mousseline cream (a mixture of pastry cream and butter) and sprinkled with strawberry chunks. It is then topped with a thin layer of buttercream to act as a glue for the sheet of marzipan, which gives it that lovely flat and even look. Strawberry halves are lined along the outer side of the mold to give it a beautiful, bright look.